The 1920-S Buffalo Nickel is worth anywhere from $15 in worn condition to over $35,000 for rare, high-grade specimens. Finding one of these in your pocket change or an old jar is an exciting discovery, as the “S” mint mark from San Francisco often signals scarcity and higher collector demand.

Condition	Estimated Value
Good (G-4)	$15 – $25
Fine (F-12)	$55 – $80
Extremely Fine (XF-40)	$350 – $500
Uncirculated (MS-60+)	$2,000 – $35,000+

Identifying Your 1920-S Buffalo Nickel and Its Heritage

The Buffalo Nickel, also known as the Indian Head Nickel, was designed by renowned sculptor James Earle Fraser. It features a powerful profile of a Native American on the obverse and an American Bison (popularly called a buffalo) on the reverse. If you’ve discovered an old nickel dated 1920 with a small “S” on the back, you are holding a piece of American history minted during a time of post-WWI economic change. To know exactly what you have, many enthusiasts use a top coin identifier app to instantly recognize the date and mint mark.

The “S” mint mark indicates that the coin was struck at the San Francisco Mint. In 1920, the San Francisco Mint produced significantly fewer nickels compared to Philadelphia or Denver. This lower mintage is the primary reason why the 1920-S Buffalo Nickel Value is considerably higher than its counterparts. Because these coins were used heavily in daily commerce, finding one today with a visible date and distinct details is quite a feat for the average person.

When examining your coin, look closely at the reverse side, just below the words “FIVE CENTS.” If you see a small, clear “S,” you’ve found the key to its value. If there is no letter, it was minted in Philadelphia. If there is a “D,” it came from Denver. Using CoinKnow can help you distinguish these small marks even if the coin is somewhat dirty or worn, ensuring you don’t overlook a valuable treasure sitting right in your palm.

Grading and the 1920-S Buffalo Nickel Mint Mark Value

The physical condition, or “grade,” of your nickel is the most important factor in determining its market price. Most 1920-S nickels found in old collections are in “Good” or “Very Good” condition, meaning they are very worn. On these coins, the buffalo’s tail might be faint, and the date on the front might be barely readable. However, even in this state, the coin carries a premium because the San Francisco issue is a “better date” in the series.

To get a precise estimate, collectors look at specific points like the horn of the buffalo and the braid on the Native American’s hair. In “Fine” condition, the horn should be at least partially visible. In “About Uncirculated” or “Mint State” conditions, the coin retains its original luster and looks almost as fresh as the day it left the mint. You can check the latest 1920-S Buffalo Nickel price data to see how quickly the value jumps as the condition improves.

For those unsure of how to grade their coins, CoinKnow offers a streamlined way to compare your coin against high-resolution images of various grades. Professional grading by services like PCGS or NGC is usually reserved for coins that appear to be in “Extremely Fine” or “Uncirculated” condition, as the cost of grading can be high compared to the value of a heavily worn coin.

Grade Name	Technical Grade	Visual Characteristics
Good	G-4	Date is readable but faint; rims are worn.
Very Fine	VF-20	Half of the buffalo’s horn is visible; hair details are clear.
Mint State	MS-63	Full mint luster; no wear; sharp horn and hair details.

Why the 1920-S is Rarer Than Other Buffalo Nickels

Mintage numbers tell a compelling story. In 1920, the Philadelphia Mint pumped out over 63 million nickels, while San Francisco produced only 9,689,000. While nearly 10 million might sound like a lot, you must consider that most of these coins were circulated until the designs were worn flat. Unlike modern collectors who save coins in rolls, people in the 1920s spent their nickels on bread, newspapers, and streetcar fares.

This high circulation rate means that “high-grade” survivors are incredibly rare. A 1920-S in Gem Uncirculated condition is a “white whale” for many collectors. This scarcity at the top end of the grading scale drives the price into the tens of thousands of dollars. Even for common folks, understanding this 1920-S Buffalo Nickel value information helps put into perspective why a rusty-looking coin from a San Francisco mint might be worth fifty times more than a shiny nickel from the 1960s.

Furthermore, the San Francisco Mint was known for having “weak strikes” during this era. This means the machinery didn’t always press the design firmly into the metal, resulting in coins that look worn even when they are technically new. Expert collectors look for “sharply struck” 1920-S nickels, which command a massive premium over coins with soft details. Always use CoinKnow to check for these subtle strike differences before selling your find.

Common Errors and Varieties to Watch For

While the 1920-S is famous just for its date and mint mark, the series is also known for errors. While there isn’t a major “doubled die” widely recognized for the 1920-S like there is for the 1916 or 1935, collectors still hunt for minor variations. These include “Clipped Planchets,” where a piece of the coin’s circular metal is missing, or “Lamination Errors,” where the surface of the nickel appears to be peeling.

Another thing to look for is the “3-Legged” variety, though this is primarily found in the 1937-D issue. Still, examining your 1920-S for any oddities is worth your time. An error on a coin that is already a “semi-key date” like the 1920-S can significantly boost its desirability. If you see something that looks “wrong” with the coin—like a letter being out of place or extra metal blobs—it might be a mint error rather than damage.

It is vital to distinguish between a genuine mint error and “post-mint damage” (PMD). PMD occurs after the coin leaves the mint, such as being scratched by a rock or squeezed in a vice. Collectors generally do not pay extra for damage. Identifying these nuances is easier when you have a community or a database to refer to, allowing you to see what genuine 1920-S errors actually look like.

Where to Sell Your 1920-S Buffalo Nickel

Once you’ve identified that your 1920-S Buffalo Nickel is authentic and determined its approximate grade, you might want to turn that metal into cash. For low-grade coins worth $15 to $50, local coin shops or online auction sites like eBay are often the best bet. These venues allow you to reach a wide audience of casual collectors who need this specific date to fill a hole in their collection folder.

For high-value coins—those worth $500 or more—you should consider professional auction houses like Heritage Auctions or GreatCollections. These venues cater to serious investors who are willing to pay top dollar for verified, high-grade 1920-S specimens. Before selling, always ensure you have a clear idea of the current market; prices can fluctuate based on collector demand and the state of the economy.

Selling Venue	Best For…	Pros/Cons
Local Coin Shop	Quick cash, low-mid value coins	Immediate payment but lower offers (wholesale prices)
Online Auctions	Variety of grades, wide reach	Higher potential price; requires shipping and fees
Major Auction Houses	Rare, high-grade, certified coins	Highest possible price; long wait times and high commissions

How to Store and Preserve Your Rare Nickels

If you decide to keep your 1920-S Buffalo Nickel, proper storage is essential to maintain its value. The worst thing you can do is clean the coin. Many beginners think they are helping by scrubbing off dirt or using silver polish to make it shine. In the world of coin collecting, cleaning a coin permanently damages its surface and can reduce its value by 50% or more. Collectors want original “patina”—the natural aging of the metal.

Instead of cleaning, place your nickel in a “2×2” cardboard flip or a plastic coin capsule. These protect the coin from oils on your fingers and from being scratched by other coins. Store your collection in a cool, dry place, as humidity can cause “environmental damage,” leading to ugly spots or corrosion. By taking these simple steps, you ensure that your piece of history remains valuable for the next generation.

FAQ

Q: Where is the mint mark on a 1920-S Buffalo Nickel?

A: The “S” mint mark is located on the reverse (back) of the coin, directly underneath the words “FIVE CENTS” and the buffalo’s mound. If there is no letter there, the coin was struck in Philadelphia.

Q: Should I clean my 1920-S Buffalo Nickel to make it look better?

A: No! Never clean a rare coin. Cleaning creates microscopic scratches and removes the original surface luster that collectors value. A cleaned coin is almost always worth significantly less than an uncleaned one, regardless of how “dirty” it looks.

Q: Why is my 1920 Buffalo Nickel date fading?

A: This is a common issue with Buffalo Nickels. The date was part of the highest point of the design, meaning it was the first thing to wear away as the coin circulated. Coins with “Full Dates” are much more valuable than those with “Partial Dates” or ones where the date has completely worn off.

Q: Can I find a 1920-S Buffalo Nickel in my change today?

A: While possible, it is extremely rare. Most Buffalo Nickels were pulled from circulation by the 1950s and 60s. However, people sometimes spend old coin collections, so it’s always worth checking your change or looking through “unsearched” rolls of nickels from the bank.