The 1968 No S Roosevelt Dime is worth anywhere from its face value of $0.10 in circulated condition to over $40,000 for the rare “No S” proof variety. While most dimes from this year are common, finding the elusive mint error can change your financial life overnight.

Condition / Variety	Estimated Value
Circulated (Philadelphia/Denver)	$0.10 – $0.25
Uncirculated (MS65)	$1.00 – $3.00
1968-D Full Bands (MS67)	$50 – $150
1968-S Proof (Standard)	$2.00 – $5.00
1968 “No S” Proof Error	$15,000 – $45,000+

Understanding the 1968 No S Roosevelt Dime Rarity

The year 1968 was a significant one for the United States Mint. It marked the first year that proof set production was moved from Philadelphia to the San Francisco Assay Office. As a result, all proof coins were supposed to feature the “S” mint mark. However, a small number of proof dimes were accidentally struck without the “S” mark. This error occurred because an obverse die was shipped from Philadelphia to San Francisco without the mint mark being hand-punched into it.

If you have a collection at home and want to check your change quickly, using a top coin identifier app is the most efficient way to distinguish between a common dime and a valuable error. The “No S” dime is considered one of the “Holy Grails” of modern pocket change. Only a few dozen specimens have been officially graded, though experts believe around 60 to 100 might exist in total.

When you use the CoinKnow app, you can zoom in on the area just above the date to see if that tiny “S” is missing. Remember, this error only exists on proof coins—those extra-shiny, mirror-like coins found in official government sets. If you find a worn, dull 1968 dime in your pocket without a mint mark, it was likely minted in Philadelphia and is only worth face value.

Identifying Features of the 1968 Roosevelt Dime

To determine the value of your coin, you first need to identify its origin. In 1968, dimes were produced in Philadelphia, Denver, and San Francisco. The Philadelphia coins have no mint mark, Denver coins have a small “D,” and San Francisco proof coins have an “S.” The challenge for many beginners is confusing the common Philadelphia dime with the ultra-rare “No S” proof error.

The key is looking at the finish. A standard Philadelphia dime has a “business strike” finish, meaning it was made for general circulation and looks somewhat matte or satin-like. A proof coin, however, has a mirror-like background and highly detailed “frosty” features. If your coin looks like a mirror and has no mint mark, you may have found a fortune. Professional collectors often track the 1968 dime price trends in mint state to decide when to sell their high-grade specimens.

Physical details matter immensely. On the reverse, look for the “Full Bands” (FB) on the torch. This refers to the horizontal lines at the top and bottom of the torch being fully separated. Coins with Full Bands are much more valuable to collectors than those with blurred lines.

Mint Mark	Location	Mintage Quantity
None (Philadelphia)	Business Strike	424,470,000
D (Denver)	Business Strike	480,748,280
S (San Francisco)	Proof Only	3,041,506
No S Error	Proof Only	Estimated < 100

Factors That Determine 1968 Roosevelt Dime Value

What makes one 1968 dime worth ten cents and another worth ten thousand dollars? It essentially comes down to three factors: Rarity, Condition, and Variety. Most 1968 dimes are composed of a copper-nickel clad “sandwich” and contain no silver. Because nearly a billion were minted for circulation, they aren’t rare in average condition.

However, condition is king in the numismatic world. A coin’s grade is determined on a scale from 1 to 70. A 1968-D dime in MS67 (Mint State 67) condition is much harder to find than an MS60. You can check the current market value for 1968 dimes to see how specific grades impact the price. High-grade coins are usually those that were preserved in bank rolls or mint sets immediately after production.

If you aren’t sure how to grade your coin, the CoinKnow app can help you identify grade-defining features like “Full Bands.” For collectors, the 1968-D with Full Bands is a sought-after variety because the Denver strikes that year were often weak, leaving the torch details blurry. A crisp, sharp strike will always command a premium at auction.

How to Spot a Real “No S” Error

Spotting the “No S” error requires a keen eye and perhaps a magnifying glass. The error only occurred on Proof Dimes. Proof dimes were sold in rigid plastic cases as part of a “1968 Proof Set” that included a penny, nickel, dime, quarter, and half dollar. If you find a 1968 dime inside one of these original purple-labeled plastic cases and it lacks the “S” mark, you have found the jackpot.

Be wary of “fakes” or misconceptions. A common 1968 Philadelphia dime also has no mint mark, but it was made for circulation. If you find a dime in your pocket, check its luster. Is it shiny like a mirror? If not, it’s a Philadelphia dime worth ten cents. The real error must have the sharp, mirror-like “Proof” strike characteristics.

Historically, these coins have sold for staggering amounts. In 2006, a 1968 No S Roosevelt Dime graded PR68 by PCGS sold for over $32,000. In more recent years, prices have climbed even higher as more collectors seek to complete their “No S” sets, which include the 1970, 1971, 1975, 1983, and 1990 No S errors.

Condition Grade	1968 (P) Value	1968-D Value	1968-S Proof Value
MS63 / PR63	$0.25	$0.25	$1.50
MS65 / PR65	$2.00	$3.00	$5.00
MS67 / PR67	$15.00	$25.00	$12.00
MS68 / PR68+	$100+	$200+	$50+

Common 1968 Dime Errors Worth Money

Even if you don’t find the $40,000 “No S” dime, there are other 1968 errors that hold value for collectors. While not as famous, these errors occur during the minting process and make the coin unique. For everyday hunters, these are more likely to be found in jars or old piggy banks.

One common error is the “Repunched Mint Mark” (RPM). This happens when the letter punch (like the “D”) is struck twice into the die, creating a shadowed or doubled look. Another is the “Die Crack,” where a crack in the hardened steel die leaves a raised line of metal on the coin’s surface. Broadstrikes and off-center strikes also occur, where the coin isn’t properly aligned in the press.

To get a better idea of what these look like, you can use the CoinKnow tool to compare your coin’s image with known error catalogs. Even a small “capping” error or a minor double die can boost a dime’s value from ten cents to ten or twenty dollars. While it’s not a retirement fund, it’s a great way to start a profitable hobby!

Why the 1968 “No S” Dime is So Famous

The 1968 “No S” dime is legendary because it was the first error of its kind. Before 1968, Philadelphia didn’t use mint marks on dimes, and proof sets were made in Philadelphia. When the transition to San Francisco happened, nobody expected a Philadelphia die (without a mint mark) to be used for proof strikes in San Francisco.

Collectors love a story, and the “missing mint mark” saga is one of the most compelling in U.S. history. After the 1968 discovery, the Mint had similar mishaps in 1970, 1975, and several other years with different denominations. However, the ’68 Roosevelt Dime remains the pioneer of this error type. Because it was caught relatively quickly, very few sets were released to the public, making the survivors incredibly scarce and expensive.

If you ever come across a 1968 dime that looks exceptionally beautiful and lacks a mint mark, don’t spend it. Put it in a protective sleeve immediately. The difference between a common pocket coin and a museum-quality rarity is often just a single missing letter and a very shiny finish.

FAQ

Q: Is a 1968 dime with no mint mark rare?

A: It depends. If it is a regular-looking coin from your pocket, no—it was made in Philadelphia and is worth face value. However, if it is a proof coin (shiny, mirror-like) found in a proof set, it is the “No S” error and is worth thousands of dollars.

Q: Does a 1968 dime contain silver?

A: No, standard 1968 Roosevelt dimes are made of a copper-nickel clad composition. The U.S. Mint stopped using 90% silver for dimes and quarters after 1964.

Q: How can I tell if my coin is a “Proof” strike?

A: Proof coins have a high-reflectivity, mirror-like background (fields) and very sharp, often frosted details. They are struck twice with specially polished dies and were never intended for circulation.

Q: Where is the mint mark located on a 1968 Roosevelt dime?

A: The mint mark is located on the obverse (front) of the coin, just above the year 1968, near the base of Roosevelt’s neck. It will be a “D” for Denver, an “S” for San Francisco, or blank for Philadelphia.