The 1973 Roosevelt Dime is worth anywhere from its face value of $0.10 in worn condition to over $600 in high-grade mint state. While most dimes you find in your pocket change today are only worth ten cents, certain rare errors and pristine specimens can fetch a surprising premium among collectors.

Condition / Grade	Estimated Value (USD)
Circulated (Average Wear)	$0.10 – $0.25
Uncirculated (MS60 – MS63)	$1.50 – $5.00
Gem Uncirculated (MS65+)	$15.00 – $65.00
Superb Gem (MS67 Full Bands)	$250.00 – $600.00+

The Mystery of the 1973 Dime No Mint Mark

If you just looked at the change in your palm and noticed a 1973 dime missing a small letter next to the date, you might think you have stumbled upon a rare mistake. In the world of numismatics, certain “no mint mark” coins—like the famous 1982 dime—are worth thousands. However, for 1973, a missing mint mark is actually the standard identifier for coins struck at the Philadelphia Mint.

During this era, the Philadelphia facility did not use a “P” mint mark on dimes. Millions were released into circulation, making them incredibly common. If you are unsure whether your coin is a common Philadelphia strike or a rare variety, using a top coin identifier app can quickly clarify the origin of your find. Most people using CoinKnow find that their 1973 Philipadephia dimes are worth exactly ten cents if they show signs of heavy use.

To truly find value in a 1973 Roosevelt dime with no mint mark, you have to look beyond the strike location. Collectors are interested in “Bank Wrapped Rolls” or coins that have never been touched by human hands. These “Mint State” coins retain their original luster and crisp details. While the average person spends these at the grocery store, a savvy collector keeps them protected in plastic flips.

Understanding 1973 Roosevelt Dime Grading and Value

The value of a 1973 dime is almost entirely dictated by its “grade,” which is a numerical score from 1 to 70. Most dimes you find while sorting through a jar of change will grade between Fine (F12) and About Uncirculated (AU58). At these levels, the coin is composed of a copper-nickel clad composition, not silver, meaning it lacks intrinsic bullion value.

For those hunting for profit, the real money lies in “Full Bands” (FB) designations. This refers to the horizontal bands on the torch on the reverse side of the coin. If these bands are fully separated and distinct, the coin is considered a high-quality strike. You can check the current 1973 Roosevelt Dime price guide to see how much a Full Bands designation adds to the total price.

Check your coin under a magnifying glass. Are there scratches on Roosevelt’s cheek? Is the rim dinged? Even a tiny scratch can drop the value from $50 down to $0.10. Using an app like CoinKnow helps enthusiasts grade their coins by comparing them to high-resolution images of known specimens.

Mint Mark	Mintage Quantity	Rarity Level
None (Philadelphia)	315,420,000	Very Common
D (Denver)	455,483,160	Very Common
S (San Francisco Proof)	2,760,339	Uncommon

Valuable Errors to Look for on a 1973 Dime

While 1973 was a relatively stable year for the U.S. Mint, errors still slipped through the cracks. These errors are the “holy grail” for pocket change hunters. One common error found on Roosevelt dimes is the “Off-Center Strike,” where the coin blank was not properly aligned, resulting in a partial image.

Another exciting find is the “Broadstruck” error. This happens when the coin is struck without the collar that holds its shape, making the dime appear flatter and wider than usual. Doubled Die Obverse (DDO) errors are also possible, though they are quite subtle on 1973 dimes. You would need to look at the lettering of “LIBERTY” or the date under 10x magnification to see a slight doubling of the lines.

If you suspect you have an error, refers to this detailed 1973 dime value and error analysis to compare your coin with known mechanical errors. Error coins can sell for $20 to $100 depending on the severity of the mistake. Collectors love these unique pieces because they represent a “glitch in the system” of the U.S. Treasury.

1973-S Proof Dimes: The Shiny Exception

If your 1973 dime looks exceptionally shiny—almost like a mirror—and features an “S” mint mark, you have found a Proof coin. These were not meant for circulation; they were sold in special sets to collectors. However, over the decades, many of these sets were broken open, and the coins were spent.

A 1973-S Proof Dime is valued based on its “Cameo” (CAM) or “Deep Cameo” (DCAM) effect. This is the contrast between the frosted portrait of Roosevelt and the mirror-like background fields. A standard proof might only be worth a couple of dollars, but a perfect PR70 Deep Cameo can be worth a significant amount.

Even though these coins have an “S” mark, people often group them into the 1973 dime research category. If your coin is shiny but has no mint mark, it is likely just a very clean Philadelphia strike, or it may have been “proof-like,” a rare condition where regular dies produce a mirror finish. Using CoinKnow can help you distinguish between a polished regular coin and a genuine proof strike.

Feature	Proof Coin	Business Strike
Surface Finish	Mirror-like / Reflective	Satin / Dull
Strike Quality	Sharp, high detail	Standard detail
Intended Use	Collectors only	General Commerce

Is the 1973 Dime Silver?

One of the most frequent questions people ask when they find an old-looking dime is whether it contains silver. Unfortunately, the United States Mint stopped using silver for dimes and quarters after 1964. By 1973, all dimes were made of a “clad” composition consisting of an inner core of pure copper and an outer layer of 75% copper and 25% nickel.

You can verify this easily by looking at the side of the coin (the edge). If you see a distinct copper-colored stripe running along the center of the reeds, your coin is a standard clad dime. If the edge is solid silver/white all the way through, you might have a rare “wrong planchet” error, where a 1973 die struck a leftover silver blank from years prior—though this is extremely unlikely for this specific year.

Because there is no silver content, the “melt value” of a 1973 Roosevelt dime is very low—currently less than $0.03. Therefore, the value is entirely determined by its numismatic (collector) appeal. This is why condition is so critical; without silver, a beat-up 1973 dime is just ten cents.

Where to Sell Your 1973 Roosevelt Dime

If you believe you have found a high-grade 1973 dime or a valuable error, you might be wondering how to turn that metal into cash. For coins worth $1 to $10, local coin shops may not be interested, as the profit margin is too low for them. In these cases, selling on platforms like eBay or Etsy is your best bet.

For coins that appear to be in “Gem” condition (MS65 or higher), it is worth getting them authenticated. Professional grading services like PCGS or NGC charge fees to certify coins. Only do this if you are confident the coin will grade high enough to cover the fees.

For the casual collector, keeping a 1973 dime in a simple cardboard holder is a great way to start a collection without spending a fortune. It’s a piece of American history from a year of transition and cultural change, and finding a perfect one in your pocket is a small but exciting victory.

FAQ

Q: Why is my 1973 dime missing a mint mark?

A: In 1973, dimes minted in Philadelphia did not feature a “P” mint mark. This is completely normal and indicates the coin was made at the main U.S. Mint facility. It is not an error and does not automatically make the coin valuable.

Q: Is a 1973 dime worth more than 10 cents?

A: Only in specific circumstances. If the coin is in perfect, uncirculated condition (Mint State), it may be worth $1 to $5. If it has a rare error or a “Full Bands” designation in high grade, it can be worth $100 or more. Otherwise, circulated 1973 dimes are only worth face value.

Q: How can I tell if my 1973 dime is a “Full Bands” coin?

A: Flip the coin to the reverse (back) and look at the torch in the center. There are two sets of horizontal bands at the top and bottom of the torch. If those bands are clearly separated by a distinct line with no interruptions, it is a Full Bands dime, which is highly sought after by collectors.

Q: Did the mint make any silver 1973 dimes?

A: No, there were no official silver dimes produced in 1973. All 1973 Roosevelt dimes were made of copper and nickel. The only way to find a silver dime is to look for coins dated 1964 or earlier.