The 2010-S Roosevelt Dime is worth anywhere from $3 in typical proof condition to over $45 for high-grade specimens with deep cameo contrasts. While modern dimes found in pocket change usually only carry their face value, the “S” mint mark indicates a special collectible coin that every casual hunter should recognize.

Grade	Estimated Value
PR 65 (Standard Proof)	$3.00 – $5.00
PR 69 Deep Cameo	$10.00 – $15.00
PR 70 Deep Cameo (Perfect)	$40.00 – $65.00

Understanding the 2010-S Roosevelt Dime Value

If you have stumbled upon a shiny ten-cent piece dated 2010 with a small “S” under the date, you aren’t looking at a standard coin meant for buying a soda. This is a Proof coin, minted specifically for collectors at the San Francisco Mint. To accurately identify your find, many hobbyists utilize the top coin identifier app to distinguish between common circulation strikes and these more valuable collector versions.

The value of the 2010-S dime is primarily driven by its “Cameo” effect. Unlike the duller dimes in your wallet, these coins feature frosted portraits of FDR that pop against mirror-like backgrounds. Because they were sold in protective sets, they rarely enter general circulation. If you found one in a coin jar, it’s likely an “impaired proof,” meaning it has scratches that lower the price.

However, for those holding a pristine set, the 2010-S Roosevelt Dime remains a steady asset in the numismatic market. While it isn’t a “get-rich-quick” coin like a rare 19th-century silver dollar, it represents a piece of modern American history that commands a premium over its ten-cent face value. Using a tool like CoinKnow can help you track these subtle market shifts in real-time.

The Difference Between San Francisco, Philadelphia, and Denver Mints

To know exactly what your coin is worth, you must look at the mint mark. In 2010, the U.S. Mint produced dimes in three main locations. The Philadelphia (P) and Denver (D) mints created billions of coins for everyday use. These are common and generally only worth ten cents unless they have a rare error. The San Francisco (S) mint, however, only produced about 1.6 million proof dimes that year.

When you look at the current price trends for 2010 dimes, you will notice a massive gap between the “P” or “D” versions and the “S” versions. Casual collectors often mistake a very shiny Denver dime for a proof, but the “S” mark is the definitive proof of its origin.

Mint Mark	Production Type	Mintage (Approx)
P (Philadelphia)	Circulation	557,000,000
D (Denver)	Circulation	562,000,000
S (San Francisco)	Proof Only	1,685,216

Composition Matters: Clad vs. Silver 2010-S Dimes

A critical detail that many people miss is that there are actually two different types of 2010-S Roosevelt Dimes. One is made of the standard “clad” composition (copper and nickel), and the other is the 90% Silver version. The silver version was included in the Special Silver Proof Sets and is significantly more valuable because of its precious metal content.

A clad 2010-S dime weighs 2.27 grams, while the silver version weighs 2.50 grams. If you aren’t sure which one you have, the “tissue test” or checking the edge of the coin can help. If the edge shows a copper stripe, it’s clad. If the edge is solid silver/white, you’ve found the silver variety. For a more detailed breakdown, checking a 2010 proof dime price guide will show you that silver versions can fetch $12 to $25 even in lower grades.

Using CoinKnow allows you to log which version you have in your collection so you don’t confuse the two. The silver content alone makes the 90% version a great hedge against inflation, regardless of its collector “numismatic” value.

Grading the 2010-S Dime: From PR65 to PR70

In the world of coin collecting, condition is everything. Because proof coins like the 2010-S were never meant to touch other coins, they are expected to be nearly perfect. Grading scales for these coins go from 1 to 70. A “PR70” (Proof 70) is a perfect coin with no visible flaws even under 5x magnification.

A 2010-S dime graded PR69 is quite common and might only sell for the price of a fancy coffee. However, a “Perfect 70” is much rarer and is highly sought after by registry set collectors. These collectors want the best of the best, and they are willing to pay a premium for that plastic slab from companies like PCGS or NGC.

Condition Description	Typical Clad Value	Typical Silver Value
Impaired Proof (Circulated)	$0.15 – $0.50	$8.00 (Melt Value)
PR65 – PR67 (Average)	$3.00 – $6.00	$12.00 – $18.00
PR70 Deep Cameo (Perfect)	$45.00+	$75.00+

Are There Any Rare Errors for the 2010 Dime?

While the 2010-S is a collector coin, many people also look for errors on the 2010-P and 2010-D dimes. Error coins are “mistakes” made by the minting machines, such as double dies, off-center strikes, or clipped planchets. In 2010, the quality control at the US Mint was very high, so errors are relatively rare.

The most common “minor” error people find is a die crack, often appearing as a small raised line of metal on FDR’s head or on the torch on the reverse. While interesting, these usually only add a few dollars to the value. If you think you’ve found a major error, such as a coin struck on the wrong metal thickness, it is best to verify it through CoinKnow or a local coin shop before spending money on professional grading.

Why You Should Keep Your 2010-S Dimes

Even if the current market value of a 2010-S Roosevelt Dime isn’t enough to buy a new car, these coins are excellent for starting a collection. They represent the craftsmanship of the modern San Francisco Mint and are much more beautiful than the coins we use at the grocery store.

The silver 2010-S versions, in particular, are great to hold onto. As the price of silver fluctuates, the “bottom” price of your dime will stay tied to the precious metal market. It’s a fun way to invest in silver while also owning a piece of numismatic art. Keeping your coins in protective flips or cases is essential to ensure they don’t lose value over time due to toning or scratches.

Frequently Asked Questions

FAQ

Q: Can I find a 2010-S dime in my change?

A: It is possible, but very unlikely. 2010-S dimes were only sold in sets to collectors. If you find one, it means someone broke open a collector set and spent the coin. These are called “impaired proofs” and are usually only worth a small amount over face value due to wear.

Q: How can I tell if my 2010-S dime is silver?

A: Check the edge of the coin. A standard clad dime has a visible copper-colored stripe around the side. A silver 2010-S dime will have a solid, bright silver edge. You can also weigh it; the silver version is heavier (2.5g vs 2.27g).

Q: Is a 2010-P dime worth anything?

A: Generally, a 2010-P dime is only worth its face value of $0.10. However, if it is in “uncirculated” condition (meaning it looks brand new with no scratches), it could be worth $1 to $3 to a collector filling a folder.

Q: Where is the mint mark on a 2010 dime?

A: The mint mark (P, D, or S) is located on the right side of the coin’s front (obverse), just above the date 2010.

Q: Is it worth getting a 2010-S Rosevelt Dime professionally graded?

A: Only if the coin appears to be absolutely perfect (Potential PR70). The cost of grading usually ranges from $20 to $50, so the coin needs to be worth more than the grading fee to make it a smart financial move.