1968 Roosevelt Dime Coin Value: How Much Is It Worth?
Most 1968 Roosevelt dimes are worth face value in circulated condition. A USA Coin Book guide estimate places an MS65 example at about $2.50 for both the Philadelphia and Denver issues.
The real action starts with proof varieties and mint errors — particularly the famous 1968 No S proof, which inhabits an entirely different price universe. Before you get excited, you need to confirm exactly what you have.
Fast Way to Identify Your 1968 Roosevelt Dime
The quickest way to start is to upload clear photos of both sides of your coin. Our identifier can offer a preliminary read on the mint, finish type, and basic version based on those images.
It will not authenticate errors or assign an exact grade, but it narrows the field so you know what to research next.
1968 Roosevelt Dime Value
Upload both sides of your 1968 Roosevelt Dime.
Front Obverse
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Back Reverse
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Which 1968 Roosevelt Dime Versions Are Worth Money?
- The 1968 No S Proof is the headline variety — a San Francisco proof missing its mintmark, with marketplace context around $20,000 and up for authenticated examples according to PCGS.
- A 1968-D dime struck on quarter-thickness planchet stock is a confirmed wrong-planchet error; individual value depends on authentication and condition.
- 1968-S Proof Doubled Die Reverse examples show duplication on lettering, torch, and branches — value depends on severity and grade.
- Mint-state coins with Full Bands designation in higher grades can carry a modest premium over non-designated pieces of the same mint and grade.
- Off-center strikes, clipped planchets, and repunched mintmark varieties have been reported and may carry premiums depending on visibility and condition.
Step 1: Identify Your 1968 Roosevelt Dime Mint Mark and Version

Start with the basics: the date 1968, Roosevelt's portrait on the front, and the torch flanked by branches on the back. That much is easy.
Mintmarks sit on the obverse near the date. A "D" means Denver.
An "S" means San Francisco, and those should be proof strikes. No mintmark at all is the normal Philadelphia business strike — this is critical to understand before anyone mentions the No S proof.
The standard metal is copper-nickel clad over a copper core, weighing about 2.27 grams and measuring roughly 17.9 mm across. Silver Roosevelt dimes ended after 1964, so a 1968 that looks silver-colored is still clad.
Color alone does not determine alloy.
Proof production returned to San Francisco in 1968 after a gap (1965–1967 used Special Mint Sets instead). So every 1968 proof should carry an S mintmark — unless it is the rare No S variety, which is a different story entirely.
Step 2: Check Your 1968 Roosevelt Dime Grade

Focus on the high points first. Roosevelt's cheek, jawline, and the hair detail above his ear show wear earliest.
On the reverse, check the torch lines and the leaf veins.
Tilt the coin under a single light source. Unbroken original luster across those high points points toward Mint State grades.
A coin that looks shiny but has hairlines from cleaning, or flat spots from circulation, grades lower than one with honest, even wear.
Full Bands is a strike designation, not a grade. It refers to clear separation of both horizontal band pairs on the torch.
A coin can be MS65 without Full Bands and MS63 with them — grade and designation are scored separately. The comparison image is your best friend here: line up your coin's wear pattern against the reference and be honest about what you see.
Step 3: Check 1968 Roosevelt Dime Value by Mint and Version
1968 Roosevelt Dime — No Mintmark / Philadelphia Business Strike

The 1968 Philadelphia dime carries no mintmark, which is perfectly normal for this mint. Millions were struck for everyday commerce.
In circulated grades these trade at face value.
At MS65, the USA Coin Book guide estimate is $2.50. With a Full Bands designation the same grade can bring a bit more, but you need both horizontal torch band pairs clearly separated to qualify.
Original, uncleaned surfaces matter — a dipped coin with artificial brightness does not grade the same as one with natural luster. Compare your coin carefully against others of the same mint, grade, and designation before drawing conclusions.
Range Grade
Price Auction Records Appraisal PO PO 1
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Coin Identifier FR FR 2
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Coin Identifier AG AG 3
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Coin Identifier G G 4
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G 6
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Coin Identifier VG VG 8
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VG 10
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Coin Identifier F F 12
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F 15
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Coin Identifier VF VF 20
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VF 25
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VF 30
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VF 35
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Coin Identifier XF XF 40
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XF 45
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Coin Identifier AU AU 50
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AU 53
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AU 55
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AU 58
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Coin Identifier MS MS 60
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MS 61
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MS 62
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MS 63
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MS 64
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MS 65
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MS 66
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MS 67
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MS 68
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MS 69
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MS 70
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1968 Roosevelt Dime — D Mintmark Business Strike

Denver's 1968-D dime is identified by the small "D" mintmark on the obverse near the date. Production was high, so circulated examples are strictly face-value coins.
The USA Coin Book guide places an MS65 at $2.50, identical to the Philadelphia issue. Full Bands pieces can edge higher, but the premium is modest at lower Mint State grades.
Look for complete separation of the torch bands and original surfaces without cleaning or contact marks. This is a common coin that becomes collectible mainly in higher certified grades with strong strikes.
Range Grade
Price Auction Records Appraisal PO PO 1
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Coin Identifier FR FR 2
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Coin Identifier AG AG 3
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Coin Identifier G G 4
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G 6
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Coin Identifier VG VG 8
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VG 10
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Coin Identifier F F 12
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F 15
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Coin Identifier VF VF 20
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VF 25
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VF 30
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VF 35
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Coin Identifier XF XF 40
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XF 45
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Coin Identifier AU AU 50
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AU 53
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AU 55
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AU 58
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Coin Identifier MS MS 60
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MS 61
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MS 62
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MS 63
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MS 64
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MS 65
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MS 66
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MS 67
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MS 68
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MS 69
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MS 70
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1968 Roosevelt Dime — S Mintmark Proof

The 1968-S proof carries a small "S" mintmark on the obverse and should display the sharp, mirrored fields and frosted devices characteristic of proof manufacture. San Francisco resumed proof production this year after the 1965–1967 Special Mint Set hiatus.
Coin Value Lookup is a handy starting point if you want to compare this proof against other Roosevelt dime years and mints.
At PR65, the USA Coin Book guide estimate is $2.50. Cameo or deep cameo contrast between frosted devices and mirror fields can add value, but that designation must be confirmed — not every proof qualifies.
Do not lump proof coins with business strikes when comparing prices; they are different products.
Range Grade
Price Auction Records Appraisal PR PR 1
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PR 2
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PR 3
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PR 4
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PR 6
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PR 8
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PR 10
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PR 12
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PR 15
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PR 20
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PR 25
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PR 30
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PR 35
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PR 40
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PR 45
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PR 50
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PR 53
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PR 55
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PR 58
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PR 60
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PR 61
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PR 62
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PR 63
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PR 64
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PR 65
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PR 66
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PR 67
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PR 68
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PR 69
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PR 70
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1968 Roosevelt Dime — No S Proof

This is the variety that gets people's attention. The 1968 No S proof is a San Francisco proof dime where the S mintmark was accidentally omitted from the die.
It is one of the most famous modern proof errors in U.S. coinage.
Before you celebrate, understand the critical distinction: an ordinary 1968 Philadelphia dime also has no mintmark, and that is worth ten cents. The No S proof must show deliberate proof manufacture — sharply struck devices, mirrored fields, squared-off rims.
If your coin looks like it came from pocket change, it is not this variety.
A PCGS article from January 2025 describes marketplace context of $20,000 and up for authenticated examples. The exact grade and any cameo designation govern the actual price — this is not a flat number for every specimen.
Professional authentication is essential here; self-diagnosis from a photo will not settle the question.
Range Grade
Price Auction Records Appraisal PR PR 1
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PR 2
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PR 3
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PR 4
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PR 6
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PR 8
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PR 10
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PR 12
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PR 15
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PR 20
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PR 25
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PR 30
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PR 35
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PR 40
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PR 45
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PR 50
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PR 53
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PR 55
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PR 58
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PR 60
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PR 61
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PR 62
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PR 63
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PR 64
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PR 65
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PR 66
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PR 67
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PR 68
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PR 69
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PR 70
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1968 Roosevelt Dime Error List
1. 1968 Roosevelt Dime — No S Proof

The 1968 No S proof is exclusively a San Francisco proof issue. The die lacked the S mintmark that should appear on the obverse near the date.
This was a mint error during die preparation, not something that happened after striking.
To confirm it, first establish that the coin is genuinely proof-manufactured: mirrored fields, sharp device edges, squared rims. Then examine the area where the S belongs and compare it directly against a normal 1968-S proof at matching magnification.
A normal Philadelphia business strike also lacks a mintmark, and that is a ten-cent coin — do not confuse the two.
Lookalikes include coins where the mintmark area has been abraded, corroded, or damaged after leaving the mint. According to a PCGS January 2025 article, authenticated examples typically sell for $20,000 and up, with exact grade and designation determining the specific figure.
Professional certification is not optional for this variety.
2. 1968 Roosevelt Dime — Dime Struck on Quarter Stock
This error involves a 1968-D dime struck on a planchet punched from quarter-thickness stock instead of the thinner dime stock. The coin looks like a normal dime in diameter but feels noticeably thicker and weighs approximately 3 grams rather than the standard 2.27 grams.
A Heritage Auctions listing described a PCGS-certified AU58 example of this error. An accurate scale and a known-good dime for comparison are your first diagnostic tools.
If the weight is close to 2.27 grams, you do not have this error.
Do not confuse a slightly heavy coin with this variety — post-mint damage, added material, or a simple measurement error can mislead. Value depends on authentication, condition, and error severity, and must be assessed individually by a professional grading service.
3. 1968 Roosevelt Dime — Proof Doubled Die Reverse

A doubled die reverse has been reported on the 1968-S proof dime. The duplication appears as rounded or notched doubling on the lettering of UNITED STATES OF AMERICA and ONE DIME, as well as on the torch and branches.
This is a die-making error, distinct from the flat, shelf-like appearance of machine doubling.
This variety carries the normal S mintmark — it is separate from the No S proof. Look for consistent directional doubling across multiple reverse elements; if only one letter looks odd, you may be seeing a die chip or strike anomaly instead.
Machine doubling, which is caused by die bounce during striking, produces flat, featureless shelves rather than rounded secondary images. Value depends on the severity of the doubling and the coin's grade, so individual assessment by a grading service is the appropriate path.
4. 1968 Roosevelt Dime — Off-Center Strike
Off-center 1968 dimes have been reported. In this error, the blank is not properly centered between the dies during striking, resulting in a displaced design and an unstruck crescent along one edge.
The date needs to remain visible for the coin to be attributed to 1968 — a heavily off-center piece with no date is just an unidentifiable error coin. Minor off-center strikes of a few percent are far more common than dramatic ones.
Do not confuse a clipped planchet, one-sided die misalignment, or post-mint flattening with a genuine off-center strike. The unstruck crescent should show the original blank edge, not a damaged or filed surface.
Value depends on the percentage of displacement, date visibility, and overall condition, and each piece should be evaluated individually.
5. 1968 Roosevelt Dime — Repunched Mintmark

A repunched mintmark variety has been reported on the 1968-S dime. This occurs when the mintmark punch was applied more than once in slightly different positions, leaving traces of the earlier impression visible alongside the final S.
Under magnification, look for a secondary outline, notch, or shadow near the S mintmark. Compare your coin to a normal 1968-S at the same magnification so you can see the difference clearly.
The remnant should be consistent and in a fixed position relative to the final punch.
Machine doubling around the mintmark area, die chips, and corrosion can all mimic a repunched mintmark to the untrained eye. True repunching shows a distinctly positioned second impression.
Value depends on the variety's visibility and the coin's condition.
6. 1968 Roosevelt Dime — Clipped Planchet

Clipped planchet errors have been reported on 1968 dimes. A clip occurs when the blank is punched from strip metal that overlaps a previously punched hole, leaving a curved missing section.
Straight clips from the edge of the strip also exist.
Look for the characteristic missing portion along with a corresponding area of design weakness on the opposite side of the coin, sometimes called the Blakesley effect. The edge at the clip should show the raw blank's texture, not a filed or cut surface.
Post-mint damage — someone filing or cutting the edge — does not produce that opposite-side weakness or matching edge texture. Value depends on clip size, type, and the coin's overall condition, so individual assessment is the way to go.
7. 1968 Roosevelt Dime — Die Crack / Die Chip

Die cracks and die chips have been reported on 1968 dimes. These are raised features caused by fractures or small breaks in the steel die.
A crack appears as a thin raised line, often running from the rim inward. A chip shows up as a small raised blob where a piece of the die face broke away.
A rim-connected break large enough to displace metal is sometimes called a cud — these tend to attract more collector interest than hairline cracks. Examine your coin under magnification and note whether the feature is raised (die crack) or incuse (scratch).
Incuse scratches, surface corrosion, or foreign material stuck to the coin can look similar at first glance. Value depends on the crack's prominence, location, and the coin's condition.
8. 1968 Roosevelt Dime — Clashed Dies

Die clash errors have been reported on 1968 dimes. A clash happens when the obverse and reverse dies strike each other without a planchet between them, transferring ghost-like impressions of the opposing design onto each die face.
Subsequent coins struck from those damaged dies carry those transferred traces.
Look for faint outlines of the torch or lettering on the obverse, or hints of Roosevelt's profile on the reverse. These ghost images should align with where the opposing die features would contact during a normal strike.
Random scratches, raised lines from other causes, or partial brockage impressions can mimic a clash. True clash marks are symmetrically positioned relative to the opposite design.
Value depends on the clash's visibility, boldness, and the coin's overall condition.
