1928 Buffalo Nickel Coin Value: How Much Is It Worth?
A 1928 Buffalo Nickel in ordinary circulated condition starts around $1.56 in Good-4 grade and can climb to roughly $929 at MS63 for the scarcer San Francisco issue, based on USA Coin Book guide estimates. All three mints produced the Type 2 recessed-denomination reverse this year, and no regular proof was struck.
Condition and mint matter enormously, so read on before you price yours.
Fast Way to Identify Your 1928 Buffalo Nickel
Snap clear photos of both sides of your coin, making sure the date, the area below FIVE CENTS on the reverse, and the overall surface are in focus. Upload the front and back images to our identifier for a preliminary read on your coin's mint and version.
This is not a certified authentication but a helpful first step toward understanding what you have.
1928 Buffalo Nickel Value
Upload both sides of your 1928 Buffalo Nickel.
Front Obverse
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Back Reverse
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Which 1928 Buffalo Nickel Versions Are Worth Money?
- The 1928-S (San Francisco) Type 2 commands a significant premium in Mint State, with a guide estimate near $929 at MS63 versus $112 for the Philadelphia issue at the same grade.
- All three mints show meaningful jumps between circulated and uncirculated grades, so checking for original luster is worth your time.
- Recognized error categories such as Two Feathers and Doubled Die exist for this date and can carry additional value depending on the specific coin's condition and visibility of the error.
Step 1: Identify Your 1928 Buffalo Nickel Mint Mark and Version
Three mints struck 1928 Buffalo Nickels: Philadelphia, Denver, and San Francisco. Philadelphia coins carry no mintmark at all.
Denver pieces show a small D, and San Francisco pieces show an S, both located on the reverse just below the words FIVE CENTS.
All 1928 nickels use the Type 2 reverse design, where FIVE CENTS sits in a recessed area below a flat line. There is no intentional Type 1 mound-design variety for this date; that distinction applies only to 1913 nickels.
The coin is struck in 75% copper and 25% nickel, weighs about 5 grams, measures 21.2 mm across, and has a plain edge. There is no silver version.
If a magnet sticks to it, you have a problem.
Step 2: Check Your 1928 Buffalo Nickel Grade
Start with the obverse. The Native American portrait wears down in a predictable order: the braid and hair above the forehead go first, then the cheekbone flattens.
On the reverse, check the bison's shoulder and the tip of the horn.
Here is where 1928 nickels get tricky. Branch-mint strikes from the 1920s were sometimes weak to begin with, so a coin can look worn on the horn even if it never left a bank bag.
Compare your coin to the grading image rather than relying on one detail.
Original mint luster is the clearest divider between a high circulated grade and a true Mint State coin. Look for cartwheel reflections when you tilt it under a single light source.
Never use acid or chemical cleaning to restore a weak date. That destroys the coin's surfaces and its collectible value in one step.
Step 3: Check 1928 Buffalo Nickel Value by Mint and Version
1928 Buffalo Nickel — No Mint Mark — Type2 Circulation
The 1928 Philadelphia Buffalo Nickel has no mintmark. Look at the reverse beneath FIVE CENTS: the space should be empty.
This is the most common of the three mints for this year.
USA Coin Book guide estimates place it around $1.56 in Good-4 and about $112 in MS63. Those are retail guide figures, not guaranteed sale prices.
Even so, the jump from circulated to uncirculated tells you that original surfaces matter.
Coin Value Lookup is a good starting point if you want to compare this coin's value against other dates in the Buffalo series or look up different denominations entirely.
Range Grade
Price Auction Records Appraisal PO PO 1
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Coin Identifier FR FR 2
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Coin Identifier AG AG 3
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Coin Identifier G G 4
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G 6
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Coin Identifier VG VG 8
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VG 10
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Coin Identifier F F 12
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F 15
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Coin Identifier VF VF 20
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VF 25
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VF 30
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VF 35
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Coin Identifier XF XF 40
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XF 45
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Coin Identifier AU AU 50
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AU 53
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AU 55
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AU 58
Coin Identifier MS MS 60
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MS 61
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MS 62
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MS 63
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MS 64
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MS 65
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MS 66
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MS 67
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MS 68
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MS 69
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MS 70
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1928 Buffalo Nickel — D — Type2 Circulation
The 1928-D carries a small D mintmark on the reverse below FIVE CENTS. Denver struck a healthy quantity, so these are not scarce in lower grades.
Guide estimates from USA Coin Book run about $1.88 in Good-4 and roughly $132 at MS63. That slight premium over the Philadelphia issue reflects typical branch-mint pricing, not genuine rarity in circulated condition.
In Mint State, look carefully for strike weakness on the horn and shoulder. A weakly struck coin can be full uncirculated yet still look soft in those spots, which affects eye appeal and what buyers will pay.
Range Grade
Price Auction Records Appraisal PO PO 1
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Coin Identifier FR FR 2
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Coin Identifier AG AG 3
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Coin Identifier G G 4
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G 6
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Coin Identifier VG VG 8
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VG 10
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Coin Identifier F F 12
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F 15
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Coin Identifier VF VF 20
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VF 25
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VF 30
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VF 35
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Coin Identifier XF XF 40
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XF 45
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Coin Identifier AU AU 50
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AU 53
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AU 55
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AU 58
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Coin Identifier MS MS 60
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MS 61
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MS 62
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MS 63
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MS 64
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MS 65
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MS 66
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MS 67
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MS 68
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MS 69
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MS 70
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1928 Buffalo Nickel — S — Type2 Circulation
The 1928-S is the one to watch. San Francisco's S mintmark sits on the reverse below FIVE CENTS, same location as the D.
USA Coin Book guide estimates show about $2.19 in Good-4 and around $929 at MS63. That MS63 figure dwarfs the other two mints for the same year because well-preserved San Francisco nickels from this era are genuinely hard to find with strong strikes and clean surfaces.
Even mid-grade circulated examples deserve a careful look. If the date is fully readable and the bison's horn still shows some definition, you are likely above the lowest tier.
Strike quality varies widely on 1928-S coins, so compare yours against attributed examples before drawing conclusions about grade.
Range Grade
Price Auction Records Appraisal PO PO 1
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Coin Identifier FR FR 2
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Coin Identifier AG AG 3
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Coin Identifier G G 4
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G 6
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Coin Identifier VG VG 8
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VG 10
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Coin Identifier F F 12
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F 15
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Coin Identifier VF VF 20
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VF 25
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VF 30
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VF 35
Coin Identifier XF XF 40
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XF 45
Coin Identifier AU AU 50
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AU 53
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AU 55
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AU 58
Coin Identifier MS MS 60
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MS 61
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MS 62
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MS 63
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MS 64
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MS 65
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MS 66
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MS 67
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MS 68
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MS 69
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MS 70
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1928 Buffalo Nickel Error List
1. 1928 Buffalo Nickel — Two Feathers / Abraded Third Feather
This error has been reported on 1928-S Buffalo Nickels. Normally the obverse shows three feathers extending from the Native American's hair near the neck.
On the Two Feathers variety, the third feather was abraded or polished away on the die itself, so it appears partially or fully missing on struck coins.
To check, compare the feather area closely against a normal three-feather example. If only two feathers are clearly present and the area where the third should be looks smooth rather than worn, you may have the variety.
Do not confuse ordinary wear, a weak strike, or grease-filled dies with this die-abraded error. Circulation wear tends to reduce all three feathers, not selectively erase one.
Condition and visibility of the missing feather strongly influence what such a coin is worth, and individual assessment is important.
2. 1928 Buffalo Nickel — Lamination / Split Planchet
A lamination or split-planchet error has been reported on 1928-D Buffalo Nickels. This happens when the metal alloy contains impurities or trapped gas, causing layers to separate.
The result is a visible flap of metal peeling away from the surface, or a detached area that reveals a different texture underneath.
Photograph the affected area along with the coin's edge so the separation is clearly visible. A retained flap that is still attached to the coin is generally more collectible than a missing chunk.
Be careful not to mistake deliberate scraping, corrosion pitting, or a coin that someone physically cut. Laminations follow the contour of the planchet and reveal consistent metal beneath.
The value depends on the size and location of the lamination, the coin's overall grade, and how dramatic the error looks.
3. 1928 Buffalo Nickel — Doubled Die
Doubled-die errors have been reported for 1928 Buffalo Nickels. A doubled die occurs when the die itself receives a misaligned second impression during its manufacture, producing consistent doubling on every coin struck from that die.
Look for separation or notching on design elements, especially lettering and date digits. The doubling should be uniform and repeatable across the entire affected area.
If the doubling shifts direction from one letter to the next, that is a red flag for a different cause.
Machine doubling, which is flat and shelf-like, is the most common lookalike. Reflections from lighting can also mimic doubling in photos.
Post-mint damage from another coin pressing against the surface creates similar illusions. Genuine doubled dies show rounded, raised secondary images.
Value depends on the strength and visibility of the doubling as well as the coin's condition.
4. 1928 Buffalo Nickel — Off-Center Strike
Off-center strikes have been reported for the 1928 Buffalo Nickel. This error occurs when the planchet is not properly seated between the dies, producing a crescent-shaped blank area on one side and a shifted design on the other.
The key collectibility factor is whether the date remains fully visible. A 5-10% off-center coin with a clear date is far more desirable than a dramatic 50% shift that obliterates the year.
Look for a uniform unstruck crescent; the blank area should be smooth and follow the coin's original rim contour.
Watch out for lookalikes. A clipped planchet produces a curved bite but the design stays centered.
Post-mint flattening from a vise or hammer can push metal outward and mimic misalignment. Genuine off-center errors show a clean, consistent displacement of the entire design relative to the rim.
