1934 Buffalo Nickel Coin Value: How Much Is It Worth?
The 1934 Buffalo Nickel carries guide values from roughly $1.56 in Good-4 up to $162 in MS-63, depending on mint and condition. There was no regular proof issue this year.
Both Philadelphia and Denver struck coins, and telling them apart is straightforward once you know where to look.
Fast Way to Identify Your 1934 Buffalo Nickel
Snap clear photos of both sides of your coin and upload them here for a preliminary identification. Make sure the date is readable and the area below FIVE CENTS on the reverse is in focus.
That's where the mintmark lives, and it matters for pinning down which version you have.
1934 Buffalo Nickel Value
Upload both sides of your 1934 Buffalo Nickel.
Front Obverse
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Back Reverse
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Which 1934 Buffalo Nickel Versions Are Worth Money?
- Philadelphia coins in MS-63 guide around $81; Denver coins in MS-63 guide around $162, reflecting the premium for the D mint in top grades.
- Check your mintmark carefully — a Denver coin in comparable grade can be worth roughly double a Philadelphia example.
- Do not assume a weak detail is proof of a mint error; strike weakness was common and a missing feather or soft horn is not the same as a doubled die or off-center strike.
Step 1: Identify Your 1934 Buffalo Nickel Mint Mark and Version
The 1934 Buffalo Nickel comes from two mints. Philadelphia coins carry no mintmark at all.
Denver coins show a small D on the reverse, sitting just below the words FIVE CENTS in the recessed area.
All 1934 nickels use the Type 2 reverse design, where FIVE CENTS sits in a recessed field below the bison. The earlier Type 1 mound design was only used in 1913, so you will not find it here.
The coin is 75% copper and 25% nickel, weighs about 5 grams, measures 21.2 mm across, and has a plain edge. There is no silver version for this date.
If your coin looks silver-colored and feels lighter than expected, that is likely damage or alteration, not a different metal.
Step 2: Check Your 1934 Buffalo Nickel Grade
Start with the obverse. The first areas to lose detail from wear are the braid above the Native American's ear and the high point of the cheekbone.
On the reverse, the bison's shoulder and the tip of the horn wear down early.
Here is the catch: a weak horn or soft shoulder does not always mean heavy circulation. Some 1934 nickels left the mint with incomplete strikes, particularly from the Denver facility.
Compare your coin side by side with the grading comparison image to separate genuine wear from strike softness.
Look for original cartwheel luster on higher-grade pieces. Contact marks and bag abrasions are normal on mint-state coins but will hold the grade below gem levels.
Never use acid or chemical treatments to restore a faded date; it destroys value and is easy for dealers to spot.
Step 3: Check 1934 Buffalo Nickel Value by Mint and Version
1934 Buffalo Nickel — No Mint Mark — Type2 Circulation
The 1934 Philadelphia Buffalo Nickel has no mintmark. Look at the reverse below FIVE CENTS — if the space is empty, you have the P-mint coin.
Guide estimates place this version at about $1.56 in Good-4 and around $81 in MS-63.
Philadelphia struck the larger share of 1934 nickels, so circulated examples are common. The real jump in value comes with original, undamaged mint-state surfaces.
Full horn detail and strong luster push these into the higher tiers of collector interest.
Coin Value Lookup is a good starting point if you want to compare your 1934 nickel against other dates in the Buffalo series or check values for different denominations.
Range Grade
Price Auction Records Appraisal PO PO 1
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Coin Identifier FR FR 2
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Coin Identifier AG AG 3
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Coin Identifier G G 4
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G 6
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Coin Identifier VG VG 8
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VG 10
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Coin Identifier F F 12
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F 15
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Coin Identifier VF VF 20
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VF 25
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VF 30
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VF 35
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Coin Identifier XF XF 40
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XF 45
Coin Identifier AU AU 50
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AU 53
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AU 55
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AU 58
Coin Identifier MS MS 60
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MS 61
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MS 62
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MS 63
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MS 64
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MS 65
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MS 66
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MS 67
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MS 68
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MS 69
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MS 70
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1934 Buffalo Nickel — D — Type2 Circulation
Denver's 1934-D carries a small D mintmark on the reverse, positioned below FIVE CENTS in the recessed field. In Good-4 condition, a guide estimate sits at about $1.88.
Jump to MS-63 and the same guide places it near $162 — roughly double the Philadelphia coin at that grade.
The Denver mint was known for softer strikes during this era, so do not panic if the horn or shoulder look mushy. That is often a manufacturing trait, not heavy wear.
A true MS-63 example will still show strong luster across the fields even if every last hair strand is not razor-sharp. When evaluating one of these, focus on surface quality and eye appeal rather than obsessing over a single design element.
Range Grade
Price Auction Records Appraisal PO PO 1
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Coin Identifier FR FR 2
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Coin Identifier AG AG 3
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Coin Identifier G G 4
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G 6
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Coin Identifier VG VG 8
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VG 10
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Coin Identifier F F 12
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F 15
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Coin Identifier VF VF 20
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VF 25
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VF 30
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VF 35
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Coin Identifier XF XF 40
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XF 45
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Coin Identifier AU AU 50
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AU 53
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AU 55
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AU 58
Coin Identifier MS MS 60
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MS 61
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MS 62
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MS 63
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MS 64
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MS 65
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MS 66
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MS 67
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MS 68
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MS 69
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MS 70
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1934 Buffalo Nickel Error List
1. 1934 Buffalo Nickel — Struck-Through Error
A struck-through error on a 1934 Philadelphia nickel occurs when foreign material — grease, wire, thread, or a metal fragment — gets trapped between the die and the planchet during striking. The result is a localized depression or incomplete area in the design where the obstruction blocked the metal flow.
Grease-filled dies create smooth, flat spots, while a retained foreign object leaves a more distinct impression, sometimes with texture. These are different subcategories and carry different levels of collector interest.
Do not confuse a struck-through with ordinary wear, post-mint scratches, or cleaning damage. True struck-throughs show a disruption that is part of the strike itself, not something inflicted afterward.
The value depends on the size, location, and visual drama of the error, along with the coin's overall condition. No specific price range is established here, so individual assessment matters.
2. 1934 Buffalo Nickel — Off-Center Strike
An off-center strike happens when the planchet is not seated properly in the collar before the dies come together. The result is a displaced design with an unstruck crescent of blank metal along one edge.
On a 1934 nickel, the key question for value is whether the date remains visible. A 10% off-center with a full date is collectible; a 50% off-center missing the date is a curiosity but much harder to attribute to the correct year.
Watch out for lookalikes. A clipped planchet has a curved missing section but the design is centered.
Post-mint damage from a vise or hammer can flatten an edge without the telltale crescent of blank metal. True off-center errors show the shift consistently across both sides.
Value depends on the percentage of misalignment, date visibility, and overall condition.
3. 1934 Buffalo Nickel — Wrong Planchet / Off-Metal Strike
A wrong-planchet error means the 1934 nickel design was struck on a blank intended for a different denomination — a cent planchet has been specifically reported for this date. The coin will look odd immediately: the size, weight, color, or edge will differ from a standard nickel.
To confirm, weigh and measure the coin. A normal Buffalo Nickel is 5 grams and 21.2 mm.
A cent planchet is smaller, lighter, and copper-colored. The design may be incomplete because the smaller blank could not fill the full die impression.
Do not confuse this with plating loss, corrosion, acid-treated coins, or deliberate alterations. Coins that have been chemically stripped or coated can mimic an off-metal appearance.
Genuine wrong-planchet errors are rare and require careful verification. Value varies widely based on the specific planchet, the completeness of the design, and overall preservation.
4. 1934 Buffalo Nickel — Doubled Die Obverse
A doubled die obverse on a 1934 nickel shows consistent doubling in the obverse lettering or design elements — the result of a misaligned hub impression during die production. This is a die-manufacturing error, not damage.
Look for separation or notching in letters like LIBERTY or in the date numerals. The doubling should be uniform and repeatable across every coin struck by that die, which distinguishes it from machine doubling.
Machine doubling produces a flat, shelf-like appearance without the sharp secondary image that a true doubled die displays.
Reflections, worn die contours, and strike anomalies can also mimic doubling under certain lighting. Examine the coin under consistent, angled light and compare it to a known normal example.
Value depends on the strength and visibility of the doubling and the coin's condition. No specific price range is established for this variety.
5. 1934 Buffalo Nickel — Doubled Die Reverse
A doubled die reverse affects the back of the coin. On a 1934 Buffalo Nickel, check the legends FIVE CENTS, UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, and E PLURIBUS UNUM for consistent separation or notching in the letters.
The bison's outline and the denomination text are the areas most likely to reveal doubling.
True doubled die reverses show a clean secondary image created during die manufacture. Machine doubling, by contrast, leaves a flat, mushy shelf that lacks the crispness of a genuine doubled die.
Random scratches and contact marks can also create false impressions of doubling, especially under magnification with inconsistent lighting.
Compare your coin's reverse to a known normal example under the same light source. Value hinges on the visibility of the doubling, its location, and the coin's preservation.
No specific price range is established, so individual assessment is appropriate.
